Star Wars C2C Reversible Tote Bag

I didn’t grow up watching Star Wars, but have come to love it as an adult. The first time I saw Episodes I-VI was when my husband insisted it would be good for me. Now I’m with him anticipating the releases of each new movie, and enjoying every bit of them. While my love for Star Wars may have come around recently, my love of bags has not, and I’ll take every excuse to buy or make another one.

With this bag, I wanted to make sure it was sturdy enough to carry around my school books, so I opted for the dense C2C stitch with a fabric lining. While you can make this bag without the sewn lining, I highly recommend it, as it will strengthen the bag and keep it from stretching too much. With a sewing machine it is not too difficult to add, but in case you decide against it, below you can see a couple photos of the bag pre-lining. The bag has the same books and notebooks in it in all photos, but you can see a little more stretching on the base of the unlined bag. While the strap is several inches wide, it also feels like it could over stretch if the bag was more full. I do not have this fear with the lined bag.

 





To complete this bag, you will need the following materials:

Star Wars Logo Graphs – Downloadable PDF

Red Heart Super Saver Yarn in Red (0319), White (0311), and Black (0312)

3.25 mm (US D) crochet hook [Affiliate Link]

Tapestry Needle [Affiliate Link]

Stitch Markers [Affiliate Link]

1 yard of Star Wars print fabric for the lining – purchased from StitchnStash Fabrics on Etsy

Black Thread [Affiliate Link]

Iron and Ironing Board [Affiliate Link]

Sewing Machine and cutting supplies [My recommendations]

 

Optional Equipment – This yarn management system will make keeping your skeins of yarn untangled much less of a nightmare.


The two sides and the strap are completed with hdc c2c, as demonstrated in this video. This c2c begins with ch 5 to start a new row, 3 hdc for the stitch, and ch 2 for the next stitch.

Complete each side panel of 30 x 30 squares, changing colors as indicated in the logo graphs. The strap is also c2c with black yarn, 6 x 150 squares. I marked off each 30 rows with a stitch marker, which helped with keeping track of the length both in completing the strap and connecting it to the side panels. When completed, the side panels should measure 15″ x 15″, and the strap should measure 3″ x 77″. Once assembled, the usable strap should measure 3″ x 32″.




To assemble the bag, line up one end of the strap to one side of the panel and sc through both layers, going down each edge, putting 3 sc in each corner space. After connecting the strap to three sides of the bag, tie off yarn and weave in ends. The bag is assembled inside out, so in the above photo, the strap is being joined to the Imperial logo panel at the front top left corner. Once the strap is connected to the first side panel, it will stand upright around three sides. As you can see in the below photo, the stitch markers are at each corner of the bag. Laying in this way, the visible side of the logo is the front of the panel, but will be on the inside as the second panel is attached.

Join the second panel with a standing sc through both layers, making sure that the front of the second panel is facing down. At this point, the right sides of the bag will be facing each other. Join the second panel to the strap as the first, sc through both layers, putting 3 sc in each corner space, around three sides of the bag.




Once both panels are connected to the strap on three sides, the strap needs to be connected down to the end. Connect as before, putting a sc through both layers, as shown below. Tie off and hide all ends. The crochet part of the bag is now complete, and can be turned right-side out. Make sure to push the corners out well when turning the bag.

To complete the lining, begin by washing and ironing the fabric. I learned to sew from my mother, and I am by no means an expert seamstress. Most things I sew are trial and error, remembering two key things:

Measure twice, cut once. Iron before and after sewing each step.

After the fabric was washed and ironed, I cut three pieces:
20″ wide x 18.5″tall (x2 for the sides)
34″ wide x 5″ tall (for the strap)

I wanted the pattern of the fabric to be correctly facing, so I made sure I cut the width going with the words of the pattern. This fabric was a little bit difficult, as it is not made with the words running straight across the fabric, but at a slight angle. Rather than having the words angled in the lining, I sacrificed a bit of fabric off the top and bottom to cut the piece square across the words.

Once the three pieces were cut, I set the strap piece off to the side and started with the sides. Line the pieces up with right sides facing, and sew along the bottom and two sides, leaving a 3/4″ margin on each. After each side is sewn, iron the margins flat.




To sew the corners, turn the fabric as shown in the above photos. As the bottom of the bag is 3″ across, the lining should be 3″ across as well. Find the line that is 1.5″ in down from the corner, where the fabric is 3″ across. Mark this with pins. Sew along the line marked by the pins to finish off the corner. Repeat for the second corner. Don’t forget to iron the creases for each corner after sewn.

The final step of the lining is to iron the seams that will be sewn to the crochet bag. It is extremely important to do these well, as once the lining is sewn to the bag, it no longer can be ironed. As the bag is made with acrylic yarn, the iron would melt the yarn and ruin the bag. For the bag lining, fold the edge down 1.75-2″ and iron all the way around. For the strap, fold the edge down 1-1.25″ on each side and iron well. To determine the size of your edges, put the lining against the bag to check, fold down the edges, and measure. My bag was 2″ in the bag lining and 1″ on each side of the strap, but it could vary slightly based on how loose/tight you crochet. Just make sure whatever size margins you choose, you are consistent and measure as you are pressing the edges down.




Once the seams are well pressed, the lining can be pinned to the bag. The crochet will stretch some while sewing, so make sure to pull it tight when pinning. When pinning, lay the lining as close to the edge of the bag where the crochet edge is still visible. If ever unsure, while ironing, sewing, or pinning — measure. You can see my measuring tape around my neck in many of the photos, which is where it lives whenever sewing. It never hurts to measure again and double check.

Once pinned, it’s time to sew! When the bag is relaxed, you’ll see that the lining looks too large for the bag. This is fine, and will be perfect once sewn, as long as you have evenly spaced your pins and you don’t over stretch the yarn while sewing.




Sew right along the edge around the top of the bag, and down both sides of the strap. Be careful that you have your machine on the correct settings, and use correct needles, as the fabric is very thick and the machine can get caught up. I neglected to check the needle before starting, and snapped it as it was for thin fabric. At least I had plenty extra on hand to quickly switch out and keep moving!

I am so thrilled with how this bag turned out, and have already begun thinking about other designs for this same structure. It feels so sturdy, and I have no fear throwing all of my books and binders in and going. The strap is wide enough to distribute the weight a bit, which should be good for the long run. I almost didn’t line the bag, but I’m so glad I did, as it will extend the useful life of this bag enormously. Even though it makes it a slightly more difficult project, I hope some of you brave the challenge to make your own.

May the Force be with you.

COPYRIGHT NOTICE: This pattern was designed by me and is intended for your personal use. I have provided it for free on my blog, and the selling of this pattern is strictly prohibited. If you are interested in selling completed items based off this pattern, please notify me and credit me as the designer.